Top Travels
Hey hey, this is Lucas, and welcome to the
podcast. To be honest, picking a topic wasn’t easy, because I have
a long, long list of ideas to cover. I think I’m just going to have
to move in some sort of logical progression, while at the same time
staying reasonably topical.
That
being said, as someone who has tried his best to get out and see as
much of the world as he can, a rundown of some of those countries
seems like a good transition from my little self-introduction. Most
people love travel, or even if they can’t find a way to travel
(especially now), they love the idea of travel, and of
discovering other cultures and places. That old chestnut about travel
being broadening is totally true, and it’s something that I would
recommend to anyone. Somewhere out there, there is a country just
begging for you to go and fall in madly love with it. At the very
least, you’ll learn some fascinating little things about a new and
interesting culture that you’d probably never learn from seeing it
on YouTube or on TV. There really is something to be said for
firsthand experience, and hopefully sharing some of mine can give you
a better idea of where you might want to go when the world returns to
some semblance of normalcy.
Of the 195 sovereign states that currently exist, I feel
that having only seen 11 of them in person I have a lot of work to
do, but once I have the time and the money, more travel is definitely
on my agenda. I’ve seen a fairly good chunk of Japan, having lived
here for about a decade, but I may set Japan aside and give it its
own episode, so that I can truly do it justice. Let’s just do this
in chronological order otherwise.
The first foreign country I ever visited, as you might
imagine, was the good old US of A. My house is about 45 minutes by
car from the US border, so not only did my family go shopping there
once in a while, but Kingston also gets a lot of tourists and weekend
partiers up from the south as well. Being a university town, Kingston
has a pretty decent night life, and possibly more importantly, we
have a lower drinking age than New York does (19 compared to 21), so
for that reason we have a lot of young military recruits come up from
Fort Drum. Let’s just say, in my experience, they held their liquor
about as well as you might expect a lot of guys between 19 and 21
would. All that aside though, when my family went to the US, all I
can remember is thinking about is how similar it was to Canada. The
road signs looked sort of weird, the shops and brands were a bit
different, but other than that, upstate New York barely seemed like
another country.
Florida, on the other hand…wow. We went to Disney
World when I was about 12, and that place did strike me as though the
culture was somehow…different. It’s hard to put my finger on now.
It was 30 years ago, mind you. Based on what I’ve heard Florida has
become about 1000% weirder in that time, but even then it was a bit
of a shock. I think the heat and a bug I picked up somewhere along
the way may have colored my experience a bit though. My memories now
are a blurry mix of fireworks at Epcot on New Year’s Eve, breakfast
at IHOP, a lot of signs for alligator farms (like, why would you even
farm alligators?), and a pervading nausea. It’s quite possible the
heat and humidity in Florida just messes with Canadians, because I
felt equally queasy when I first set foot in Okinawa.
One thing that did stick with me from that trip and
subsequent trips I made to upstate New York throughout high school
though, was that yes, there is definitely a “politeness gap”. I
mean, not all Canadians are polite, and not all
Americans are rude, but…I just have this one memory of brushing
past some guy in a restaurant in Albany, saying “Excuse me”, and
the response, I kid you not, was a very aggressive “Yeah,
whatever”. Alrighty then. My experiences of Americans living abroad
though have been almost universally awesome. It’s like night and
day. It just demonstrates how different the culture is from area to
area in the US, and how you really can’t judge the US (or any
country, for that matter) unless you get a really broad sample.
Overall I love the country, wish them the best, and hope that I can
see more of it someday, but the weirdness of the Trump era has made
me put off those plans until America learns how to make peace with
itself.
Moving on, once I had made my way to Japan in 2005, I
actually got roped almost immediately into joining several other
teachers on a trip to Thailand over the winter holidays. I hadn’t
planned on going to Thailand, but they had booked a whole package
tour, someone had subsequently dropped out, and I figured…why not?
To this day, I am incredibly glad I went. Thailand is stunning in its
natural beauty, filled with diverse and friendly people, and has a
cuisine that just doesn’t even compare with anything else in the
world: spicy, savory, complex, and incredibly varied.
We started in Bankok, as many do, and were lucky enough
to have a wonderful guide named Noot as well as six other people in
our tour group, all of whom were lovely, with the exception of one
miserable older British man who we generally ignored. During the
days, Noot showed us all of the standard sights – The Grand Palace,
Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho, a boat tour of the Chao Phraya River –
while at night we were free to explore on our own. Some people
poo-poo tour groups, but this worked very well for us. We saw the
things we wanted to see, some sights that we would never have known
were there, and still had time to explore.
From Bankok, we took a night train down the isthmus of
Thailand to Khao Sok National Park, a completely surreal place to
someone like myself, who had hardly ever traveled before. Soaring,
ancient-looking limestone cliffs cloaked in thick jungle, jutting out
of a steaming tropical lake; this is where we stayed for three days,
on floating bamboo raft-houses. Our meals were expertly prepared, and
there were daily excursions to explore caves, the nearby town, and to
ride elephants through a rubber plantation. Every day revealed more
of this unique culture, and I think I speak for everyone when I say
that we were all just drinking it up. It was here I actually learned
how to use poi (P-O-I), which, if you are unfamiliar, is a type of
performance art, popular in Thailand. The name refers both to the
art, and to the tethered weights that one rhythmically swings around
their body. In a way, it was actually good training for certain
weapons I later studied while taking Kung Fu.
After the raft-houses, we moved on from the park to the
nearby town, where we stayed in huts in the jungle. There, I vividly
recall riding inner tubes along a gorgeous stretch of river,
insulated by thick jungle on either side. A number of us also had
traditional tattoos done by a local artist, something that in
retrospect sounds sort of crazy, but I don’t regret doing at all.
Later, we moved further down the isthmus and stayed in a beach resort
in Krabi, where we had a breathtaking tour of the Andaman Sea by
yacht, and spent a full day and night camping on one of the local
islands. There, we went snorkeling, sang songs by a campfire, ate
fish freshly caught that afternoon, and gaped at the enormous monitor
lizards that happened to live there. That day was definitely a
highlight.
This was followed by an overnight stay at a rubber
plantation, where the owner took us out to watch a Muay Thai
tournament. As a martial artist this was easily another one my
favorite experiences, and I was just stunned by the raw skill and
discipline of each of those fighters, some of them as young as ten.
Later, we had gotten back to our huts on the plantation and had
just settled in for the night when we were suddenly startled
awake and shaken out of bed by music booming out of the nearby
jungle. Of course, with sleep utterly out of the question, we got up
and went to check it out. As it turned out, someone was putting on a
rave. I didn’t know jungle raves were a thing, but they totally
are. It was about as epic and surreal as one might expect, but after
dancing for a few hours, I was so tired my brain basically shut down,
and I don’t remember much else.
This is just a brief overview of some of the things we
saw, and I loved it so much I ended up going back to Thailand again a
few years later. I did a few of the same things for the sake of
nostalgia, explored a few new spots, but to keep it reasonably brief
I’ll just say that it’s hard not to have fun in that country.
Thailand most definitely left a little bit of itself in my soul,
along with that little bit of ink on my ankle.
The next country I ticked off my bucket list was Korea,
because while I had been working in Oita, my cousin Brian had been
working in Busan, also as an English teacher. This is definitely a
common theme in my family; my sister did it too. Anyway, I took the
train to Fukuoka, and from there actually made my way by hovercraft
to Busan. A hovercraft over a choppy ocean is about as bumpy as you
might expect, but it was definitely a cool way to travel. It costs
32,000 yen for a round trip, which is about 300 dollars, takes about
3 hours, and if the weather is nice you do get some cool views.
My experience of Busan was overall quite good. I started
off having dinner with my cousin, sampling some of the local cuisine
and nightlife. The cuisine didn’t win me over quite the way it did
in Thailand, but it was colorful, unique and well-prepared. I’m not
huge on kimchi, but until I went to Korea I had no idea the number of
varieties there were. Even I, a lifelong opponent of all things
pickled, ended up enjoying a few of them.
Korea is of course a modern country, but one that
celebrates its roots. Ancient temples mingle with modern skyscrapers,
gaming centers juxtapose with tranquil gardens, and I found it to be
home to a people that seek to balance working hard with having fun.
Koreans may not want to admit this, but they do have at least this in
common with the Japanese. Also great sushi and a lot of karaoke bars.
I admit, I may not remember a ton about Korea because they have a
definite drinking culture there, and I certainly partook. Fun fact,
they actually drink more per capita in Korea than in any other Asian
country. Still, I did not meet anyone there who could drink a
Canadian under the table.
So after I moved back from Japan, I was working in
Ottawa for a while, and during that time I took a trip to Europe. I
had wanted to see Europe for myself for the longest time, because my
mother had gone backpacking across Europe after university, and she
really made it sound like the experience of a lifetime. One of my
best friends from Ottawa. Marc, wanted to go as well, and so we just
decided to throw together a budget backpacking tour. We planned
everything out pretty meticulously, so that we got the most bang for
our buck. We used a homestay network called “SERVAS”, which I
highly recommend, in order to avoid paying for hotels. Basically how
it works is that you join the network, they interview you, determine
you’re not a psycho, and then give you lists of people who are
willing to host in each city you plan to visit. Then, you just
contact some of them, and if they are open to hosting during the time
you’re passing through, you’re set. We didn’t score homestays
in every place we visited, but we did in Rome, Paris and London. We
also got Euro-Rail passes to get around, which is pretty much the
best option for anyone traveling around Europe on a budget. We set
off in early August of 2011, if I remember correctly.
The first country on our itinerary was Italy. We flew
into Rome, and were met by our host family. They were a family of
four with a nice place in downtown Rome, and some of the most
gracious hosts ever. The idea with SERVAS is different from
Air B&B in that you are expected to socialize with the hosts
while you stay in their home as a means of cultural exchange, and
this actually made it better. Their daughter in particular was eager
to give us tips on where to go and what to do, and with her help we
really enjoyed the city. On our own we saw the typical sights like
the Coliseum, the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, the Forum, Trajan’s
Column, the Vatican, and strolled along the Tiber. Later, we came
back to their flat and they cooked us a wonderful dinner, after which
we chatted and split a bottle of wine.
The second day was actually off-script. Marc and I had
planned an itinerary, but the family we were staying with actually
made us an offer we couldn’t refuse: they wanted to take us to
their private cottage on the outskirts of Rome, on the edge of a
picturesque lake, where a local festival was taking place. Of course
we ditched our plans and agreed in a heartbeat. We drove out in the
afternoon, along the way taking in the spectacular countryside
(complete with ancient aqueducts!), and arrived after about an hour
at Lago di Bracciano. (Apologies for any butchering of the Italian
name.) This is an ancient volcanic lake to the northwest of Rome, and
their cottage, although modest, had a spectacular view overlooking
it. We did a little walking tour of the area, and then they cooked us
a lovely dinner of authentic Italian pasta. After that, they told us
there were going to be fireworks, and that we were free to use their
kayaks to go out onto the lake and view them from there. I really
can’t adequately convey to you how awesome these people were. It
was like we won the host family lottery.
The next day however, we had to sadly bid them adieu, or
I suppose, “arrivederci”. We were moving on to Venice. I had been
tempted to stop in Pisa along the way (to see the tower), but as it
was a significant detour, we had decided against it. We set out on
the train, and it seemed like it hardly took any time at all. We were
seated near some other travelers, a trio of very friendly girls in
their twenties, who we chatted with most of the way, and before we
knew it we were pulling into the Venice station. There, we had
reserved a room in a hostel instead of a homestay, and as soon as we
settled in we were off again to explore the city.
Venice, I should be clear, is uniquely beautiful. There
is no other city even remotely like it. Walking around it is a feast
for the senses, with classical architecture everywhere, shops full of
handcrafted goods, a variety of incredible cuisine ranging from
gelato to fresh seafood, and the ever-present smell of the sea. On
some days, I’ve heard that the smell from the canals can be a
little less than pleasant due to them doing double duty as Venice’s
sewer system, but the tides had done their duty while we were there,
apparently.
As you might expect, we were quick to tour the must-see
sights, like the Piazza San Marco, the Grand Canal, and the Rialto
Bridge. We also took a short ride on a vaporetti, or
water-bus, out to Murano, the island historically famous for its
glass-making. While unfortunately we arrived during the Ferragosto
holiday when most of the shops were closed, we were still able to
wander the streets there, and take in some of the fantastic glass
sculpture. We capped it off with drinks by the canal after one of the
most stunning ocean sunsets I have ever witnessed. If it’s a little
cliché to say that it was magical, then so be it.
After Venice we were on our way to Nice, in the French
Riviera. Again we took the train, and this time the trip was even
faster, with more spectacular views along the way. It’s really the
best way to travel in Europe. We pulled into Nice in the afternoon,
this time settling into a hotel rather than a hostel, and proceeded
to just wander around for a while. My mother had been there many
years before, and recommended the pebbly beaches, so we put our feet
in the ocean, enjoyed the sunshine, and had lunch at a patio nearby.
Marc convinced me to try some local olives, even though I hate
olives, because you can’t fully experience the Mediterranean until
you do, but it only served to verify that yes, I do indeed hate all
olives, and to the very core of my being. The mussels, however, were
delicious, and while we ate we were treated to a street performance
of Brazilian capoeira, randomly.
While we were in Nice, we decided it was worth taking a
side trip to Monaco, which is essentially right next door. There is a
local train that takes you, and after a short ride we spent part of
the next day just wandering around there. The city is obscenely
wealthy, and it shows. Mega-yachts lined the harbor, top-end luxury
cars drove the streets, and we had some definite trouble finding a
restaurant that didn’t overcharge. Eventually we found one
overlooking the sea, with a nice selection of local seafood. We took
a brief peek inside the Monte Carlo Casino, but to be honest neither
of us had much interest in gambling, and we were content to leave it
at that. We spent the evening back in Nice, mostly just taking in the
scenery rather than any specific tourist attractions.
From Nice, we were off to Paris. If we’d had more time
in France, I would have loved to have seen the countryside and toured
some little winery in the middle of nowhere, but you can’t do it
all on one trip. Paris was a must-see, and we had been lucky enough
to score a homestay with a man living right downtown. He worked in
cosmology, which I thought was super-interesting. Not to be confused
with cosmetology – he studied space, not make-up. When we arrived,
we were pleasantly surprised to find him as gracious as our last
hosts, and happy to give us a walking tour of the area. We were lucky
enough to be able to see Notre Dame before it burned, along with the
Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Champs-Elysees, the Arc de Triomphe,
and Pont Royal. One thing I do regret missing is the Paris Catacombs,
but there is just so much to see there that it completely slipped my
mind as we were running around. We did, however, take a side trip to
see the Palace of Versailles and its spectacular gardens, which was
well worth the time.
In the evening, we decided to cook for our host, and
even though for the life of me I can’t recall what I made, he
seemed pleased with it. We spent some time on his rooftop patio
sipping craft beer and gazing over the lights of the city, and then
Marc and I went out to sample the night life. We went to a few bars,
but I have to say, the welcome in Paris was a bit frostier than in
some of the other places we visited. The attitude there seemed to be
that tourists were to be tolerated but engaged with only if
absolutely necessary. I understand it in a way, since they get (or
got) about 38 million of them a year, but it didn’t help alleviate
the image of Parisians as snooty and aloof. Overall though, Paris was
as fantastic as people build it up to be.
Next, we had booked a night in Amsterdam, just a single
night due to homestay and train scheduling. I sincerely wish we had
had longer, because it turned out to be one of my favorite places. We
booked a rather posh hotel at a bargain rate, right downtown, and
basically just wandered around again initially, trying to get a feel
for the city. Due to our time constraints, we didn’t want to really
spend a lot of our precious time traveling back and forth between
tourist traps, so we opted to see the canals, the Red Light District,
the pot cafes, and sample the local cuisine. In retrospect I have no
regrets, because my memories of Amsterdam are all warm, if slightly
fuzzy. We enjoyed the warm summer night on a patio, munching on some
chocolate-dipped waffle delight we discovered in a local bakery,
sipping a local beer, and called it a day. The next time I go to
Europe I will make time to see more of Amsterdam though, because the
place was everything I had pictured and more. Also, the people are
just ridiculously attractive. If I could date a country, it would
totally be the Netherlands.
From there, the last leg of our tour was London. On the
way, our train went through the famous “Chunnel”, which I had
been sort of fascinated with since first hearing about it. Pretty
cool, but the view sucks for about 40 minutes there, so bring a book.
In London we had our last and most…interesting homestay. Having
only briefly corresponded previously, we arrived to discover that our
host, Maggie, was a very elderly lady, confined to a
wheelchair. This wasn’t a problem with us of course, but it did
make for some strange moments.
She had a passion for jazz as it turned out, was
actually still quite active in organizing live jazz performances. She
had even helped organize one on our very first night there. So, for
dinner she insisted that we all go out to the restaurant where the
performance was taking place. Sounded great, we thought. We all went
out together, no doubt appearing to all like two young men and their
grandmother out for a night on the town. Now Maggie was pretty
independent, which I respected, but perhaps a bit more so than was
actually warranted. She insisted on making her own way in her
wheelchair as we strolled along behind her, but it was raining, and
there were some hills along the way. At one point, Maggie started
gaining a bit of momentum on one of those hills, and if Marc and I
hadn’t had some quick reflexes, ol’ Maggie would have gone
shooting down that alleyway and out into four lanes of London
traffic. After that, we thankfully made it to the restaurant without
further incident.
It turned out, the performance was spectacular, and the
food was surprisingly amazing. I say “surprisingly” for two
reasons, the first of course being the generally held opinion that
British cuisine is terrible. The second being that Maggie insisted I
try the haggis. Now, to those of you who are unfamiliar,
haggis is traditionally made from the heart, liver and lungs of a
sheep, minced with onion, oatmeal, spices, etc., and cooked inside
the sheep’s stomach. As you might imagine, I was not leaping at
the chance to try this, but after she insisted that I order it, she
also insisted on paying for everything, so there wasn’t really any
excuse I could give. Despite my misgivings though, I actually found
myself liking it, and everything else about that evening. We got
prime seats, and Maggie was delightful company.
The following day we did the typical tourist thing,
making the rounds of Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, Tower Bridge, The
London Eye, and Piccadilly Circus, among others. We also made time
for a trip out to Stonehenge (something I insisted on), and I’m
thrilled to have had a chance to see it. The weather wasn’t ideal
(typical of the UK, ha-ha), but standing in a place of such immense
history, that I had read so much about, was really a satisfying
experience. Stonehenge, if you don’t know, is in Wiltshire, about a
two hour bus ride to the west of London, so it was a bit far, but in
my opinion not to be missed. Long story slightly less long, we flew
out the next day, and that was it for Europe. Great trip overall,
made all the more excellent by Marc, who was great company.
Fast forward to few years later, and I was back living
in Japan, this time in Okinawa. Another friend from Canada was
visiting, and after I had shown him the sights in Okinawa we decided
to take a little side trip to Taiwan, since Miyakojima, where I had
been living, sits basically right next to it. To be honest, I didn’t
really know what to expect, because my research had been minimal.
When I travel sometimes I like it that way, because it gives you a
lot of room to just explore and discover things.
What surprised me most was how multicultural it was –
signs in English, Chinese, Japanese, Western chain restaurants mixed
in with authentic Thai, traditional Chinese, and all around I could
hear all of the above languages being spoken. People were quite
friendly too, and I ended up enjoying it a lot. We saw Taipei 101
(the tallest building in the world from 2004 to 2009), the National
Palace Museum, Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall, Ximending (or the
“Harajuku of Taipei”), the Taipei Zoo, and a few other points of
interest. I regret missing out on the famous night markets, but
overall I liked it so much I’d definitely go back and see them
then.
Since then, I’ve mostly just alternated between
visiting Canada and traveling within Japan. Visiting friends,
exploring local points of interest, and dealing with the move here to
Fukuoka has taken up a lot of my time. I do have a bucket list once
life returns to something resembling normalcy, however. At the top of
that list is another trip across Europe, this time to include
Portugal, Spain, the French countryside, The Netherlands part II,
Germany, and Denmark, probably in that order. Following that, I’ve
got my eye on New Zealand, mostly because I’m a huge Lord of the
Rings fan, and Vietnam, largely because my sister taught there and
had good things to say, but also because their food is amazing.
This one ended up being a bit longer than I intended,
sorry for that, but there were a lot of good times and good stories
in each destination. Of all these, what would I recommend the most
you ask? Well, I suppose it has to be Thailand. It was after all the
only country so nice I visited it twice, unless you count Japan or
the US of course. Yeah, there are some tourist traps, but once you
find your way around, there’s something for everyone, and so much
fun to be had. Plus, the exchange rates are not to be scoffed at –
I had a lobster dinner for the price of a bowl of ramen in Japan.
In the end I hope this helped inspire you to travel,
even though right now it’s basically an ordeal to do so. That will
change soon enough. In part it was also meant to remind us that there
is a great big world out there, even though sometimes we may feel
trapped in our own little corner of it. As I see it, we’re not just
members of a family, a community, or a country, but global citizens;
human beings with a lot in common. Half of the thrill of travel comes
from diving into the unfamiliar, but the other half is from
discovering that even in the most unfamiliar of places, you can find
shared values and new friends.
Stay awesome everybody.